THE LEGENDARY
HANAE MORI
FASHION DESIGNER
1926 – 2022
2022 OCTOBER ISSUE
Written by | Andrew Sia
Hanae Mori was born on January 8, 1926 in Muikaichi, Shimane Prefecture, a rural area in Japan. Her father was a surgeon and you can call him as a “dandy” as he was fashion savvy. Hanae was influenced by her father which inspired her to become a fashion designer after the World War II.
She was graduated from Tokyo Women’s Christian University and married to a wealthy textile mill owner’s son, Ken Mori. In 1951, she took classes at a local dressmaking school and began an atelier in the Shinjuku district in Tokyo. It was three years later, Hanae Mori opened her own boutique in Ginza at Tokyo. She began her career by designing clothes for over three hundred Japanese film movies.
In 1961, she traveled to Paris and visited Coco Chanel that completely changed her direction in fashion and started the ready-to-wear line.
In 1965, she presented her first line in New York City known as “East Meets West”. She also adopted butterfly as her signature that caught Vogue’s attention. At home she was given the task to design uniforms for Japan Airlines’ air hostesses. The first uniform was worn from 1967 to 1970, the second, was in mini-skirts and caused a sensation, was worn from 1970 to 1977. The third one was worn from 1977 to 1988.
Her contemporary mix of western-Japanese designs had gained her a lot of success and sought after by the celebrities.
It was in 1977 she opened an haute couture showroom in Paris’s Montaign Avenue. She was accepted by Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne later that year, and was the first Asian designer being invited.
In 1985, she designed the costume for Madame Butterfly for Milan’s La Scala theatre. Her intricate design and details won her the 150 costumes for Cinderella, a ballet of Paris Opera.
In October 1989, Hanae Mori received the highest honor, Chevalier de la Legion d’Honneur by the French President, François Mitterrand. It was also her 35 years of being a designer, she held an exhibition in Tokyo during that year.
She hired a French known as Dominique Sirop as a designer from 1989 to 1996. In 1997 he became a grand couturier.
In 1992 Hanae Mori continued to design the official uniform for the Japanese delegation to the Barcelona Olympics, and in 1994 she designed the official uniform for the Japanese delegation to the Lillehammer Winter Olympics.
In 1993, Masako, Crown Princess of Japan worn a sleeveless white gown designed by Hanae Mori for her wedding ceremony. It also included kimonos for Princess Masako. She was patronaged by Hillary Clinton, Nancy Regan, Renata Tebaldi and Monegasque Princess and actress Grace Kelly from Monaco.
Hanae Mori received the Order of Culture Award from the Japanese Empire in 1996.
Hanae Mori’s fragrance business, Hanae Mori Parfums, is still popular and it has a series of acclaimed fragrances including Hanae Mori Butterfly for women, HM for Men, Hanae Mori Magical Moon for women. They are all made in France and distributed worldwide.
In 2004, Hanae Mori presented her last couture collection on the runway before her retirement. In 2005, she started her foundation to help to create young designers.
In 2009, an exhibition called “Made by Hand: Hanae Mori and Young Artists” was launched in cities of Tokyo and Mito by Hanae Mori Foundation.
Hanae Mori sold her ready-to-wear operations in January 2002 to an investment group formed by Japanese trading company Mitsui & Co. and the Rothschild Group on Britain.
Hanae Mori died at her home in Tokyo on August 11, 2022, at the age of 96.