2022 OCTOBER
iApparel Journal Quarterly Issue
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FROM THE DESK OF
THE PUBLISHER
Andrew Sia
Cockroaches are an ancient group of insects during the carboniferous period—some 300-500 million years ago. These early ancestors are capable of tolerating a wide range of climates, from Arctic cold to tropical heat.
Take for instance, dinosaurs only appeared during the Triassic period—some 230 million years ago.
And we humans emerged around 300,000 years ago in Africa, evolving from Homo heidelbergensis and migrated out of Africa gradually about 160,000-60,000 years ago.
What we experienced during this summer, we have seen the lack of rain that has brought us the drought. We have suffered the intolerable heat, and in places where highest-ever temperature was recorded.
Typical example has been observed in Britain and it was recorded at 40° Celsius (104° Fahrenheit) for the first time. The UK Health Security Agency issued heat-health alert and advised its population to stay hydrated and to take precaution to prevent their homes from overheating as most homes in Britain are lack of air-conditioning.
Its British National Highways advised motorists to thoroughly check their vehicles before setting out.
Because of the lack of rainfall, temporary ban of using hoses to water the gardens and to wash the vehicles. And because of the intensely dry conditions, the risk of wildfires in certain regions and bonfires and burning garden waste were told to refrain.
They are also told to keep their pets from exposing to the direct sunlight, continuous supply of fresh drinking water and good ventilation.
We found the same in Greece, Germany, France, Spain and Portugal. Water shortage is everywhere and warnings that the European Drought Observatory’s latest assessment that there is no significant rain before the end of September.
This has come down to a scientific report that the heatwave has tied to climate change and the heat waves around the world has intensified, becoming hotter, more frequent and lasting longer. The burning of the fossil fuels caused average global temperatures to increase. This change is caused by greenhouse-gas emissions.
So when we come back to the picture that we used for this piece of writeup, it is not incorrect to quote the conversation between the father cockroach to his son cockroach that, “all these will be yours.”
Meantime, please sit back and enjoy this October issue that we have brought for your reading pleasure.
Preview all articles of this
Quarterly Issue !
Special Report
Global Fashion and Exhibition Calendar October 2022 to March 2023 | By Andrew Sia
We have covered shows in New York, London and Paris which we can consider as the capitals of the fashion. It is advisable to visit them to pick up what was left behind before the pandemic and to start a new journey now. Be expected to see changes and make use of those changes and turn them into your strength and inspiration for going forward.
We will continue to look out for any new events that we will push for your attention. Our calendar will always carry shows which are valid for the six-month period. Hopefully that it can be used as a tool that can be useful.
Franchise Show Calendar | By Andrew Sia
With this report, for the first time we have covered the four English speaking countries, namely, the United States, The United Kingdom, Canada and Australia.
We will continue to provide those related calendars and we encourage you to take a visit. Many of them are open for startups and entrepreneurs and the admission is free.
A Homage to Ursula von der Leyen | By Andrew Sia
We have chosen this time to write about the President of the European Union, Ursula von der Leyen, about her total dedication for taking up this role at this very critical moment.
We saw the invasion of Russia into its neighboring country, Ukraine, has put the E.U. member states to put aside their differences, and to focus their common threat. Ursula von der Leyen has also taken up this opportunity to create unity for the 27-states.
In peaceful time, without the war in Ukraine and the coronavirus, we observed that the states were all split and to bring them together for agreeing any policies and even legislative issues would have always been an exhaustive and prolong effort. She managed through all the crisis with patience and endurance.
Her term will come up in 2024 and I hope that she will find satisfaction of her achievements and leave the re-election to be something which will take its course. After all, it is not the work itself but the stress and pressure it has brought. I learned this from my mentor way back when I was very young.
Everything You Want to Know About Metaverse | By Andrew Sia
It is our second attempt to feature about metaverse knowing that this next digital era will change everything. I think that it is absolutely correct for us to take metaverse as the fourth era of computing and networking. We would never know that our human came all the way from the 1950s to what we are experience today.
Everything has happened so quickly before our eyes and without knowing that we can’t live in a world without social media already. It has dominating our life.
How much do we know about metaverse? I think that we have to get ready for it.
SPECIAL REPORT – EXTRA
In the Fond Memory of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II | By Andrew Sia
Her Queen Majesty Elizabeth II passed away on Thursday, September 8, and the leaders from the free world mourned for her. She just celebrated her Seventieth Jubilee recently and in the history of the United Kingdom, she served the longest period. It was a post almost impossible for her successors to take up, and if it was not her character, she could have given it up a long time ago.
Prince Charles, now King Charles III, was serving his role and most important as the successor to the throne. Today he is 73 years old already.
King Charles III is now the ruler of the United Kingdom plus the 56 Commonwealth states, namely, 15 Commonwealth realms, 36 members who are the republics and five others with the different monarchs.
The whole country is mourning of the loss of Queen Elizabeth, events and parties were all cancelled, strikes were on hold, and we have never seen the country being so sadden.
The Queen’s funeral took place on September 19 and we saw a lot of the head-of-states attending to send their condolences. After all, Queen Elizabeth II is definitely the person whom the world will remember for a long time.
The piece was written as the extra piece to express the writer’s gratitude to the Queen during his time that he spent in Hong Kong, known as the Crown Colony of the Great Britain.
Market Intelligence | By Andrew Sia
Market Intelligence Short Read - Part 1
This piece covered a lot of areas. We have brought you market news concerning those non-performers. We have also reported some of the retailers who have improved during this adverse time. There are “winners” and “losers”. But excess inventory is a problem that is waiting to be solved. We can see that the better planning is getting very important.
We also spent our effort in reporting the vegan leather and we have brought out the organization who is promoting this—Sustainable Apparel Coalition—who is using the Higg Index as the tool.
In fact, this whole piece can be very informative and we hope that you will be using it.
Market Intelligence Short Read - Part 2
I am happy to report on the return of Toys “R” Us and J.Crew, who are coming back to the market. Let’s don’t have too many drawbacks from this darn pandemic. We’re seeing people shopping again from brick-and-mortar stores, in other words, from the physical stores. Online will naturally feel the pressure, but I believe we will be shopping both online and offline going forward.
I love Eileen Fisher’s philosophy, and instead of going for IPO, she made her staff the stakeholders. She is also into the philanthropy, and not only that she emphasizes Waste No More. She is also known as Queen of Slow Fashion. The world needs more people like Eileen Fisher.
Last and not the least, it is always good to read something about Victoria’s Secret. It is still the No. 1 brand for intimates. We would wish it to come out with the new image and that is to serve everyone. All the success to you, Victoria’s Secret!
Market Intelligence Short Read - Part 3
We continue to make reports about the news relating to the fashion industry. Stores are continuing to face the uncertainties in the coming holiday seasons. It is really a tough time to stay in the business and until all these problems: overstock situation, supply chain congestion, pandemic, war, natural calamities, inequality, can be solved, for us to return to where we were would still be quite remote.
We brought up the topic about the managing of the wardrobe, our suggestion has always been to own less pieces but better pieces. In this way you can treasure for what you own and never feel that they are out of fashion.
Retail Perspective on Current Economy | By Terri Fisher
Terri raised many valid questions and that made us think as obviously many of our industries don’t have any contingency plan when the world fall in crisis. In fact, many of us have never encountered for what happened. We have never seen any pandemic in such a scale and also for such extended time. The virus is still mutating and we have seen the cases have been picked up again although it is not as fatal as before.
The world has also been caught up by the war in Ukraine has started by Russia. Putin has taken the world as hostage as the gas and food are falling into crisis. We also don’t have any idea when will this be ended.
Terri, the contributor of this article is asking for the retail industry to respond. We urge the industry to come together to come up with some constructive suggestions.
Fashion & Design
Brand Intelligence: Some Catching Up Before the Year End
| By InDesign
This piece is from the team of the IN-Digest and it captured the four themes: Body-Positive, Fabrics Push Boundaries, Color Elevates Mood and We Are The Same. Inside the article, the team shows us styles from Savage X Fenty, Skims, Half Naked, Ubras, Cosabella, Hanky Panky, For Love and Lemons, Fleu de Mal, MilaKrasna, and MORROW+MINT for the women in maternity.
It even introduced embroidery from the oldest embroidery company – Union.
I suggest you not to miss out the references they have quoted, and you can find from the interfiliere-paris.com which we introduce in every issue about their exhibition venue.
Product Intelligence: Introducing Lululemon Women’s Sneakers
| By InDesign
Sneakers is the growth path for a sports brand like Lululemon. Today the market has a lot of established brands and new brands, but Lululemon will find its supporters. Its logo—the yoga—can attract a lot of fans, not necessary only the women.
In order to win a significant position, it is necessary for Lululemon to fight an uphill battle. But it is a growing market, and the growth will come from the women runners.
In the profession running field, all the known athletes have signed up with the brands, it is big money and it is divided into each and every category. I don’t know what will be the strategy of Lululemon. But I am sure that we will hear more about it when their business will begin to grow.
In Memory of Issey Miyake - Fashion Designer - 1938-2022
| By Andrew Sia
We featured this world-renowned Japanese designer in our October 2019 issue under the “Fashion Quote” and we used his line as: “Beauty is like a sunset, it goes as soon as you try to capture it. The beauty you like is precisely that which escapes you.”
I am very impressed about his approach in combining the Japanese vision and techniques into western fashion and innovated through materials and shapes. His attitude makes me thinking about another designer who “democratized” fashion.
I found his latest quote, “Anything that’s ‘in fashion” goes out style too quickly. I don’t make fashion. I make clothes.”
The Legendry Hanae Mori - Fashion Designer - 1926-2022
| By Andrew Sia
We received the news about Hanae Mori’s death on August 11, 2022 at the age of 96. In her life she received many honors: Chevalier de la Legion d’Honneur by the French President, François Mitterrand; Medal of Honor of Purple Ribbon, by the Government of Japan; the Order of Culture by the Emperor of Japan.
She was accepted by Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne as the first Asian designer being invited.
Her contemporary mix of western-Japanese designs had gained her a lot of success and sought after by the celebrities.
She was patronaged by Hillary Clinton, Nancy Regan, Renata Tebaldi and Monegasque Princess and actress Grace Kelly from Monaco.
On top of all these, her fragrance business also enjoyed great success.
Autumn/Winter 2023 Trend Report | By Genevieve Redding
The Autumn/Winter 2023 Trend report comes in the four-color themes. Genevieve doing this in our October issue and this will give the designers out there to have the ideas about the trends for the season going forward.
It is interesting to see what is out there, especially those brands who have appeared on the runway already. They can always be used as a good reference.
Fashion Quote by Jean Patou
Written by : Andrew Sia | Illustrated by : Elita Lam
Jean Patou was born in Paris in 1887 into the family who was into the tanning and fur business. He founded his fashion house in 1914, House of Patou, but was caught immediately into WWI where he was enlisted and fought for three years. He returned and reopened his couture house.
In his life he did many right business decisions—invented women’s sportswear, swimwear, popularized cardigans and began monogram with his initial, “JP”.
The most significant success was entering into perfumery and invented JOY, the world’s renowned perfume of all time. It saved his company through the Depression.
I enjoyed his story and I hope that you will find the same. We have to admit that he certainly had the vision by saying, “The sporty silhouette is absolutely chic.”
Market Report | By Andrew Sia
Market Report Short Read - Part 1
The world is circling on the global economy being held hostage by the invasion of Russia in Europe. This has led to inflation of all kinds—oil, food, and the most threatening is the shortage of natural gas and take for instance Germany is buying more than half of its natural gas from Russia. And for the whole Europe, Russia supplied about 40% of Europe’s natural gas before the war.
It also affected the under developing countries for their repayment of the debts and one by one they have fallen into defaults. This has increased the burden of the IMF and also the World Bank who will be out there to rescue them.
Market Report Short Read - Part 2
In this report we featured a wide spectrum of subjects but you will find that the sustainability is the hottest topic. Although you may also find subjects of your interest.
But we can find that the world is getting more challenging with threats coming from all directions. We hope that you can find subjects that can be useful for you.
Market Report Short Read - Part 3
This time we are looking at lithium, the most important material for the batteries to be used in the electric vehicles. We can find them in Congo Basin, also in many of the Latin American countries, and we singled out Chile, being the largest producer of lithium.
We also mentioned that the six largest economies in South America are leaning to the left-wing governments.
We reported the future of electrified-transportation where the e-bikes are also playing an important role.
And having said all these, the investment in the semiconductors of which the chips are found in many things, ranging from transportation, military equipment and healthcare devices. That has brought up the wearable devices are relying on chips as well.
Finally the battery supply where the Asian countries are jockeying for their positions and it is not just the investment is important, but also the geopolitical situation is playing a role there.
Market Report Short Read - Part 4
It is rarely that we would post part 4 for the market report. But this time it is very crucial as we have noticed the heatwaves have brought along other calamities, such as, droughts, wildfires, extreme high temperatures, storms and damage the harvest of the agricultural crops.
This has happened so extensively and almost all the continents have been affected. We feel that we should start a new article to feature about this, but eventually to report in the market news instead.
We have to take precaution and to pay attention for its development. We will learn along the way and react accordingly.
China the Giant Juggernaut - Part 12 | By Andrew Sia
This time we talked about those debts in the African countries and already, Sri Lanka, the country in South Asia, has defaulted that caused the government to declare the bankruptcy to be followed. It was waiting for the IFM and the World Bank to bailout. But those African countries, so far there are six countries, Angola, Cameroon, Republic of Congo, Djibouti, Ethiopia and Zambia, and one by one they are going to enter into default of their repayment of debts. We understood that these were all from the result of One Belt One Road China promoted to the developing countries.
But we have to admit that China is ahead of the game in many areas because of its market policy, which not only provide the capital through direct government subsidies, but also tax incentives, below-market credit and state investment funds. Majority of its key-industrial players are state-owned enterprises.
It is ahead of many industries, and it has its designated “strategic emerging industries” in electric vehicle, electric-car batteries, biotechnology, artificial intelligence, semiconductors, pharmaceuticals and it is now promoting its e-CNY, which is a digital renminbi.
China is ahead of the game and it is something we can’t deny.
ENVIRONMENTAL & SUSTAINABILITY
Progress Report on the Paris Climate Agreement - Part 17
| By Andrew Sia
We know that by the end of the century we have to keep the global temperature under 2° Celsius from the preindustrial levels. We also know that roughly $2.8 trillion would be required to meet the current climate pledges by 2030 and $4 trillion will be needed annually to achieve net-zero emissions by 2050.
With natural-gas and oil being held hostage by Russia against the Western countries during the war in Ukraine, the world has no choice but to switch back to coal—the dirtiest fossil fuel. Coal emits almost double the carbon dioxide as burning natural gas.
We are shocked that Biden’s aim to accelerate the pace of solar installation nationwide to coincide the reduction of the U.S. emissions by keeping it 50% below the 2005 levels by the end of this decade was sabotaged
First it was by a tiny solar panel manufacturer based in California, led by Mamun Rashid, filed a petition requesting an enquiry whether China was circumventing rules intended to prevent state-subsidized solar parts from flooding in the U.S. market. The company even doesn’t produce any solar panel. And by one company’s request it has brought the industry to the halt and resulted to closing of companies and layoffs workers. It is a threat to 100,000 jobs from the industry.
And then the U.S. Congress faced the setback from passing the bill for clean energy tax incentives for producers and purchasers of clean energy because the Democrat Senate, Joe Manchin, who blocked the bill. We came to know that he has a personal tie in the coal industry and was able to single-handed set the swinging vote in an evenly divided Senates.
Barron List – Apparel, Trends and Sustainable Demand
|by Caroline Kopas
Caroline’s piece came in very timely as the U.S. Senate had just passed the bill for climate and energy programs.
From the Barron’s List of 100 most sustainable companies, we came across many of them from our industry. Caroline brought us immediately to the preciousness of water. Limiting the abundant-use of water and to pay attention to the water’s quality is becoming very important.
Lately, the rising of temperatures, especially in those places where people were not used to the rising temperature, like Great Britain, Portugal and Spain for instance. Immediately we would relate it to global warming that has created the climate change.
We have also seen the women-led corporations, gender representation, wellbeing programs for the employees and many others to join the ranking.
Large corporations are the biggest violators in the climate change. But seeing the efforts of these companies can give us a sense of hope and pride. If they know what’s best, other businesses should follow in the footsteps of these 100 companies and work cooperatively for the good of the planet and the people who call it home.
Last and not the least, Caroline told us not to use carbon offsets to cover ourselves. You can see her intelligence here.
SUPPLY CHAIN
Globalization Needs Reinvigorate - Part 6 | By Andrew Sia
We have noticed that supply chains are becoming more regional and local which we don’t deny that this can be a solution. But populism and nationalism are not to be encouraged. That is why we need to reinvigorate globalization. Those who shouted hysterically that globalization is dead has taken the matter too dramatically. Again, this should not be encouraged.
The supply chain can be reconstructed and we have to bring out the strength from each and every player. We have to try to be more equal and considerate for the weaker economy entities.
I have seen the benefit of globalization that started in the early 1980s. Without any question that it has brought the world to such a big improvement. Now we have to extend this tool to benefit the countries in the African continent. They have such a resourceful minerals and raw materials that can build up their nations and bring the prosperity to their people. The developed countries can tap into all these possibilities but should bring their heart and the moral with them but not to exploit them. After all, it has such a young population on an old continent and its median age is only 20.
By 2050, the world’s population will reach 9,725 billion but the population of Africa will be 5,267 billion. I keep reminding myself that our ancestors walked out from the African continent and reached the four corners of the world.
Like the cartoon that I have used for this article, currently our globalization is like a rollercoaster ride.
Entrepreneurship & Business
Franchise Opportunity Part 1 | By Andrew Sia
From our previous issues: January 2021 – Starting Your Own Business and April 2021 – More on Franchise During the Pandemic, were posted. When I looked back, many of the information can still be valid today. Especially with the first one, we were already introducing franchise fairs in United Kingdom, United States, Canada and Australia, all English-speaking countries, and three of the Common Wealth Countries, and if you would like to have a copy, please contact our editor.
The business theory is very simple and straight forward: the corporations own the brand, set the standards and handle the strategy, the franchisees own the stores, provide the capital and hire the people to work. At this time during the pandemic and the war in Ukraine, both have driven the food and energy cost at an all-time high. It makes the profit very hard to sustain to its old days. Nevertheless, it is still a business opportunity, especially for the new immigrants in their new hosting countries.
BOOK REPORT
Ralph Lauren Polo Shirt | Reported by Andrew Sia
It is a very heavy book, in 543 pages, hard cover, over 2” thick, weighs 3.9 lbs. It is very informative, with many pictures showing the 50-year history of Ralph Lauren. It is the preppy look that can extend and cover to all types of sports and walks of life.
Ralph Lauren named his collections under equestrian, military, destination, nautical, sports, outdoor, university, prints, philanthropy, and hall of fame. It covers every spectrum.
2022 Coronavirus Regional Report
JULY | AUGUST | SEPTEMBER
Coronavirus Regional Report - July
So far there are already more than one million deaths in the U.S. due to the cause of the Covid-19. According to Bill Gates, our world has lost $14 trillion during this period. In return, we have earned the “Great Grief”, the “Great Recognition” and the “Great Resignation”.
In this issue, I have pointed out that the trauma of the pandemic could have developed a form of mass psychosis and this disruption has caused a societal distress. No wonder we feel distraught, annoyed, agitated, impatient that lead to split and violent.
We need political leader and religious leaders to heal us and consoling is becoming very important.
At the last part of the report, we shared some views for taking precautions as the Omicron subvariant BA.5 is the most transmissible version to date. We need to protect ourselves.
Coronavirus Regional Report - August
We have been following closely this Covid-19 which first was recognized as the epidemic, and very soon that it has been escalated into pandemic in March 2020. It is now 30 months and it has been winding down.
The life that this pandemic has claimed has reached almost 6.5 million but the financial impact it has upon the world has been tremendous. The world economy has been exhausted and most of the countries have relax the control and started to treat it as an endemic.
We have been following closely this Covid-19 which first was recognized as the epidemic, and very soon that it has been escalated into pandemic in March 2020. It is now 30 months and it has been winding down.
The life that this pandemic has claimed has reached almost 6.5 million but the financial impact it has upon the world has been tremendous. The world economy has been exhausted and most of the countries have relax the control and started to treat it as an endemic.
Coronavirus Regional Report - September
In this report we brought up the long Covid, which is a distress caused during the post-Covid. There is a range of symptoms that is creating fatigue, breathlessness, bodily pain, congestion, and the patients also experiencing problems relating to brain, such as the lack of mental clarity.
Many institutions are setting up teams to study for possible treatment. At the present stage, there are more to explore and to learn.
