2019 April – Book Review: The Art of Manipulating Fabric by Colette Wolff

by Mimi Sia


Available on Amazon
Price: $16.83

This book has been on my shelf for quite some time and I often thought of doing a report on ways to handle fabrics. The book is 312 pages and contains 350 diagrams, all about the endless possibilities in manipulating fabrics into three-dimensional forms with gathering, pleating, tucking, shirring, quilting, and smocking.

In my early days, when I received my first business from Japan, Cecile was their number one mail-order house, and we were told to produce a pin-tucking bra for them using silk satin fabric. There were five rolls of pin-tacking, each with an interval of 9 mm. We asked ourselves why the Japanese were torturing us with that number, and why it couldn’t be 10 instead of 9? It sounded very off. We finally came to the understanding that they wanted us to stay alert during production.

I learned about quilting back when I was in the Philippines. In those days, all the children’s wear for the U.S. market came from the Philippines. They do very good needle work although the production efficiency leaves a lot to be desired.

The book can be used as a handbook for anyone who is good at designing textile fabrics. It covers a lot of areas and can even be used when designing very fine lingerie and nightwear such as robes and gowns. Home furnishing is also applicable.

Some of this work can be done using sewing machine attachments in order to achieve the stitching effect. It’s definitely an artistic approach that can bring another dimension to the garment.

I hope you enjoy the book as much as I do.

This article will appear in the April 2019 International Apparel Journal

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