FASHION QUOTE – JIL SANDER | APRIL 2024

Jil Sander was born Heidemarie Jilline Sander in Wesselburen, Germany on November 27, 1943. She is a German minimalist fashion designer and has the name of “Queen of Clean”. She is the founder of the Jil Sander fashion house.

Jil studied at Kresfeld School of Textiles, class of 1963, and was a foreign exchange student at the UCLA from 1963 to 1964. After she graduated, she moved on to New York as a fashion magazine’s writer. When she turned 21, she returned to Hamburg to join her siblings after the father’s unexpected death.

When Jil turned 25, she founded her own fashion house in Hamburg. Her first collection was for Hoechst, a chemical company, using their polyester trevira fabric, which is a flame retardant textile. In 1973, she launched a collection under her own brand. Her first collection was poorly received but she listed her company on the Frankfurt Stock Exchange at the end of the 1980s. Her business flourished through the 1980s and 1990s.  

Her collections were available with retailers like Linda Dresner, who had a Sander boutique on New York’s Park Avenue, and Joan Burstein of Browns in London. In 1995, the Jil Sander Group reported $114 million in sales.

It was in 1999, Prada Group bought a 75% share of the Jil Sander Group and she remained as the creative designer and also the chairwoman in the company. But six months later, Jil unexpectedly resigned abruptly as chairwoman and shortly as chief designer after confrontation with Prada’s CEO, Patrizio Bertelli. Almost all design and production staff left after her departure. For 2001, the Jil Sander group reported a net loss of $9.4 million. It continued to loss $30.4 million in 2002.

In May 2003, Jil returned to the company as head designer and partner in a surprise decision. To the public, it was Patrizio Bertelli called for the truce. She was rehired under a six-year consulting contract and received an undisclosed stake in the company and a seat on Prada’s committee.

It was very short lived as in November 2004, she terminated cooperation with Prada for good as the differences with Patrizio Bertelli was irreparable. She withdrew from her involvement in her namesake brand.   

Jil Sander moved on and work at Uniqlo. She returned to her brand in 2012, but left the brand again in October 2013.

In fact, it was already in 2009, Jil Sander announced her own fashion consultancy and the first client was Fast Retailing of Japan. She oversaw the Uniqlo label for the design of womenswear and menswear collection called +J. The first collection for 2009-10 autumn-winter season was launched on October 2009 with 40 pieces for menswear and 100 for womenswear. In included coats, jackets, knitwear, T-shirt and accessories which represented her minimalist aesthetic and reserved colors typical of Jil Sander.

The second launch of +J for 2010 spring-summer season was on December 23, 2009 throughout Asia, including Japan, South Korea, Hong Kong and China. On January 7, 2010 it was launched in the London stores and followed by January 14, in the Uniqlo sole store in New York City.

Followed by a successful run of three seasons, Jil Sander and Fast Retailing announced that the partnership agreement would not be renewed at the end of 2011. The last collection for +J was for the autumn-winter 2011 season.  

The label +J returned to Uniqlo shop and online shop in the autumn-winter 2020 for men and women collections. And it was in 2021, the control of Jil Sander brand went to the Italian fashion holding, the OTB Group.

We have seen the brand went in and out of focus in its 50 years and it was perhaps that the fashion business was too easy for Jil Sander’s to handle. Jil Sander is one of the Germany’s well-known fashion designers. The Women’s Daily named her “Queen of Clean.” It even went further quoted her saying, “Minimalism sometimes sounds too hollow.”

This time, we would like to quote her quote: “If I had the power, I would ban leggings.”  This shows Jil’s personality as a staunch German. Her perseverance has made her a strong character in the fashion world. We found that Jil’s collaboration with Fast Retailing is perhaps the best combination between the two nationalities as both the German and the Japanese are very meticulous and would stick to the principles.

I would like to direct you to read our article known as “Jil Sander Minimalist Fashion” in our April 2021 issue. You will have a fuller report there. You will like it. The picture below is Jil Sander in Harrods shop-in-shop.